![]() ![]() The scrimĪfter you’ve ditched your umbrella training wheels, the next step is to work with a scrim panel.Ī scrim is a square or rectangular frame with a fabric diffusion material stretched across, like this: So if you must use them outdoors, then please make sure you have somebody holding them or sandbags to keep them in place. I’ve had countless (expensive) lights blown over when using umbrellas. A final note on umbrellasīut they’re tricky – and even downright dangerous – to use outside. Use an umbrella as a learning tool until you get your balance, then move on to a better bike. I think using flash with an umbrella is the same. After a while, I took the training wheels off, and they rode on two wheels as if they’d been doing it all their lives. When my children were young, I taught them how to ride bikes using training wheels. If you overuse them, things tend to get a bit ugly. So think of umbrellas as an only-use-in-case-of-emergency style of lighting. Like a hose with its spray nozzle set to “everywhere.” On the other hand, umbrellas tend to over-light scenes, spreading lots of light around. ![]() Because umbrellas are easy to use and relatively cheap, they are a good beginner’s light modifier. Umbrellas are a great choice if you want to light a large area with flat, even lighting. Now let’s take a look at the different light modifiers in much greater detail, starting with: The umbrellaĪn umbrella creates a quality of light that is soft, abundant, and very forgiving. ![]() Soft light gives ethereal, beautiful portraits, whereas hard light tends to be more intense, in-your-face, and dramatic. When picking a modifier, it’s also important to consider the mood you’re after. Harsh sunlight should be combined with hard modifiers, and cloudy light should be combined with soft modifiers. Note that, if you’re shooting outside or near windows, your choice of modifier should depend on the ambient light. They’ll perform just fine, and you’ll save yourself a lot of money.Īs a general rule of thumb, if you are after hard light, then opt for a gridspot, beauty dish, Fresnel light, or even a naked flash. When you’re learning to use modifiers, however, I recommend choosing cheap versions. So once you become an experienced studio photographer, it makes sense to invest in high-quality modifiers. This becomes important when you’re using them every single day. The main difference is that the cheaper versions won’t be as durable. A quick note about light modifier costsĮvery kind of light modifier will have a top-of-the-line version and a really cheap version. Therefore, for me, modifiers are absolutely essential. I like to control the light and only illuminate certain areas of my shot. There are, of course, many really cool uses for hard lighting, and some photographers can make it look brilliant. Hence, it’s often a good idea to start with soft, carefully modified lighting. Nobody is ever going to tell you, “Wow, I love the way your hard lighting has captured and enhanced every single pore, line, and blemish on my skin. ![]() It softens the light, softens the shadows, and gives you a flattering end result. That’s why I rarely work without some sort of diffusion modifier. However, a naked flash produces hard light and harsh shadows, which I think look really unflattering. You can shoot with a subject and an unmodified flash. Technically, you can do portrait photography without modifiers. I’ll take you through all the most popular modifiers – and I’ll explain precisely what they do and why you might want to use them.īy the time you’re done, you’ll be a light modification expert! In this article, I’m going to share everything you need to know about modifiers. Light modifiers are a powerful way to shape or control light.Īnd with the right approach, you can use modifiers to achieve beautifully lit, gorgeous portraits. ![]()
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